Mar 2, 2011

Why is Luxury expensive: The Hermes bag !



We all know that Hermes Birkin and Kelly bag are one of the most luxurious and desirable bags in history. But they do not come cheap. The famous Birkin bag starts form the price of  approx. 5 000 Euros and can to to hundreds of thousands if you are using crocodile, diamonds and other precious materials. But it is not just the materials you are paying for, or the brand name, the Hermes bag is expansive because of laborious construction process involved in making each bag.

Kao sto svi znamo Hermes Birkin i Kelly torbe spadaju u najluksuznije i najpozeljnije torbe u istoriji! Cena cuvene Birkinke se krece aproksimativno od pocetnih 5 000 Eura od nekoliko stotina hiljada ako se torba izradjuje od krokodilske koze, dijamanata i ostalih plemetih metala. Ali kod ovih torbi vi ne placate samo materijal ili ime brenda nego i sam proces izrade ove torbe koji se sastoji uglavom od rucnog rada.

First of all, the craftsman will train for several years before they are allowed to make a bag. Most of the Hermès craftsman come from a school in Paris called Ecole Grégoire-Ferrandi, who specialize in leather.Once you’ve completed the course there, you have 15 months of training at Hermès, where you make watch straps, handles, and do other exercises. After that you can start on bags, but craftsmen need five years experience making bags before they can “graduate” to crocodile. There are about 2,000 craftsman working for Hermès, and each craftsman usually only specializes in four bag shapes. Luggage is made in a separate workshop, and is usually made by men as luggage requires a lot more strength during its construction, particularly when it is turned out.

Pre svega, da bi majstoru bilo dozvoljno da napravi torbu on mora da prodje kroz obuku koja traje nekoliko godina. Vecina Hermesovih majstora dolaze iz jedne Pariske skole koja se naziva Ecole Gregoire - Ferrandi koja je specijalozovana za kozu. Kada tamo zavrse kurs, primljeni majstori prolaze kroz obuku u Hermesu koja  taje 15 meseci. Na toj obuci prvo se uci kako se prave kajsevi za satove, zatim rucke i ostale sitije stvarcice. Tek posle ovoga majstor moze da krene da izradjuje torbe. Da bi neko krenuo sa izradom torbe od krokodilske koze treba mu 5 godina radnog iskustva sa "obicnim" Hermes torbama. U Hermesu radi oko 2 000 majstora i svaki od njih se specijalizuje  samo za 4 oblika torbe. Prtljag se pravi u specijalnoj radionici i njega uglavnom izradjuju muskarci zbog snage koja je potrebna za njegovu konstrukciju. 












THE PROCESS OF MAKING/ PROCES IZRADE


  • CUTTING

Each cutter will cut 5 or 6 bags a week, one at a time. They start by examining the skins and identifying which area of the skin will work for each part of the bag.
How much leather is used for a Kelly bag?
  • One calfskin
  • Two or three crocodile skins (as only the stomach is used, the rest is covered in bony scales)
  • One and a half ostrich skins, so that there are as many follicles visible as possible.
  • Four to five lizard skins (the heads and tails are not used.)





Svaki "sekac" ce iseci 5 ili 6 torbi za nedelju dana, jednu po jednu. Proces se zapocinje tako sto se koza prvo pregleda i odredjuje se koji deo koze ide za koji deo torbe. Koliko se koze koristi za Kelly torbu?


  • Jedna kravlja koza
  • Dve ili tri krokodilske koze ( za izdradu torbe se  koristi smo koza sa stomaka)
  • Jedna ipo koza noja
  • Cetiri ili pet koza od gmizavaca ( koza glave i repa se ne koristi



Crocodile leather ready to be cut




The thread used for Hermès leather goods is mouline linen thread, which has excellent dimensional stability and will not be affected by different climates. The thread comes in one hundred different colours, and a Kelly bag uses about 20 metres of thread. Before assembly, the thread is coated in beeswax so that is it waterproof and smooth.

Konac koji se koristi za Hermesovu kozu se naziva mauline linen nit, koji ima odlicnu dimenzionalnu stabilnost i nece biti pod uticajem razlicitih podneblja. Konac postoji u stotinu boja, a Kelly torba koristi oko 20 metara konca. Pre spajanja konac se oblaze u vosak da bi bio vodootporan i gladak.




TOOLS/ ALAT


The Hermès craftsman use the same tools that they did 150 years ago but the most important element is the human hand.Each craftsman has his own set of tools which are extremely personal.


Hermesovi majstori danas koriste isti alat koji se koristio i pre 150 godina, ali u procesu izrade najvaznij alat je upravo ljudska ruka. Svaki majstor ima svoj komplet alata.




ASSEMBLY/ SPAJANJE 

A craftsman takes about 3 to 4 days to assemble a bag, and each bag is worked on by one person alone.  A Kelly bag (which takes four days) has about forty pieces that needs to be assembled. Most of part of bag are assembled by hand, only some parts are machine sewn (inside pockets, shoulder straps and zipper).

The linings are always in leather, usually a very soft lamb or goatskin, so that when the owner’s hand reaches into the bag, the inside feels soft and luxurious. Even the zipper teeth are polished to ensure they don’t have any rough edges and are soft to the touch.

Once the bag is finished, it must be turned outside in, as most of the Hermès bags are worked on from the inside out. This is a very delicate process, which must be done without marking or rubbing the bag, and without damaging its shape.

The final touch is to hot stamp the Hermès logo and the craftsman’s code, as each bag can be traced back to the person who made it. If you return a bag for repairs, they will always send it back to the person who originally made it, if they are still working. Then the bag is packaged in its dust bag, and placed into the orange box, tied with the brown Hermès logo bolduc ribbon, and is ready to be delivered!




Majstoru treba oko 3-4 dana da bi sastavio jednu torbu. Kelly torba ima 40 delova i svi ti delovi su sastavljenu rucno. Samo se unutrasnju dzepovi, rucke i rajsferslus zasivaju masinski ali i njihova zavrsna obrada je rucna.

Postava se uglavnom radi od mekane jadnjece ili kozije koze, tako da kada vlasnik torbe stavi svoju ruku u unutranjost ima  osecaj mekoce i luksuza. Cak se i rajsferslus polira kako ne bi bio grub na dodir.

Buduci da se vecina torbi pravi spolja, na karju procesa one moraju da se izokrenu. To je vrlo delikatan proces i treba da se vodi racuna da se koza ne osteti.

Na posletku procesa se stavlja Hermesov logo i kod majstora, na taj nacin se uvek moze pronaci osoba koja je napravila torbu. Ukoliko vracate svoju torbu na popravku ona ce se poslati majstoru koji ju je napravio, ukoliko on jos uvek radi. Potom se torba stavlja u kesu i nerandzastu kutiju i spremna je za isporuku! 






P.S . I hope you like the post, I really did a lot of research for this on. All the photos are courtesy of Hermes.com

P.S. Zaista se nadam da vam se dopada post o izradi ovih torbi, stvarno sam se potrudila. Naravno kladim se da ih sada jos vise zelite:))))) Sve slike su vlasnistvo Hermes.com


10 comments:

  1. Lovely post!
    Gorgeous bag!I love it;)
    I just found your blog,it's very cute.I added to your followers:)
    Xoxo
    Mary
    fashionteaat5.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete
  2. bice moja, samo da prishtedim malo :)

    ReplyDelete
  3. @Mary - Thanks dear, I appreciate it!



    @ Jelena K. - Podrzavam te, i ja to isto kazem:)))

    ReplyDelete
  4. nacekacu se stedeci za ovu oranz <3

    ReplyDelete
  5. Extra post, svaka cast.. A torbe...uffff...;)

    ReplyDelete
  6. Bravo za članak o hemes torbama!
    Planiram za par godina da dodjem do jedne bele hermes lepotice :)
    Pratim te *
    http://andgodmadefashion.blogspot.com/

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